Mitre sawing: start with sketches!

At you can have your board material sawn and delivered to you with a fully finished mitred edge. Ideal for when you want to create seamless joints. In this article we will explain step by step how you can have your project mitred and what you need to pay extra attention to. When we talk about mitre sawing, we mean the complete chamfering of an edge, which ensures that you can make invisible joints and that the corners are beautifully finished.

Mitre: 45° upwards or downwards?

In our custom configurator you have two choices when it comes to mitre sawing: the mitre finish from top to bottom, or from bottom to top. By default, the option 'downwards' is chosen. This means that the sheet material is sawn from top right to bottom left when you lay the sheet material flat on the table. See the image on the right for clarification.

Which one you need depends on your project. If the board material has no visible side, a useful rule of thumb to remember is: If you mitre all sides from top to bottom, the 6 boards form a 3D cube.

Below, you will find the various possibilities presented in a practical illustration. When working with sheet material with a visible side, such as plywood, solid oak etc., you want the beautiful side to be visible. Then of course you want the beautiful side to be visible. In the images below, the visible side is indicated by the letter A. Letter B is the side that is not visible.

Start sketching

You have probably already started a sketch with the dimensions of the sheet material. Put this sketch away and take out a blank sheet of paper. First make a simple 3D sketch of your job. Then give all the boards a separate number. We have sketched a rectangular TV cabinet without a back wall. Because the furniture does not have a back panel, not all sides need to be mitred.

Dissect your sketch

The next step is to dissect your job project. Pick a particular view of the project, we went for the front view. Now draw all the separate parts. Again, number the different plates in the same way as in the 3D sketch. In the last step of our custom configurator, you can add an individual feature to each plate. Again, use the correct letters or numbers, so that when your project is delivered, you can get started right away with your job!


Note the sides

When you are ordering the board material in the configurator, you determine the finishes in step 4. This is also where you determine which sides have to be mitred. If you choose a rectangle, you will see the following image. All sides of the rectangle have their own name: short side 1 & 2, long side 1 & 2. If you choose a different shape, the sides will also have their own names. Use this image for the next step.

Name the sides

In this step, you are going to copy the picture above, as it were, into your sketch. This way, you name the long and short sides of each plate. LZ = Long side & KZ = Short side.

Name the sides: board with wood grain

If you have a project with a wood grain, you proceed in the same way, by dissecting the project and giving each side a name and number. See the image on the right.

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Mark the mitre edges

Now we are going to determine which sides are going to fall into each other, creating a seamless joint. This is indicated by arrows. Take a thick marker, for example a highlighter, and give all the sides that are going to fall together a colour.

Finished setting coloured lines? Then you can see exactly which sides have to be sawn in mitre. Because you have indicated for each side where the mitre edge should be, you can easily copy that into the configurator. For convenience, start with A and finish with E, so that you do not miss a single plate. In the picture, you can see that all sides of plate A have to be sawn in mitre. For panel B, C, D and E, three of the four sides have to be mitred (because the furniture does not have a back panel).

Inspiration projects

Be inspired by our customers and see how they realised their project with mitred edges. Maybe your idea is already there!

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